In this first video, you’ll see the longest lake in the world, Lake Tanganyika, as well as mukeke, one of the fish that comes from these beautiful waters.
In this second video you’ll view scenery from the small lakes region of Burundi, as well as spectacular fresh produce.
Finally, watch drumming performances at the Avocado Oil Festival, followed by a display of food made with avocado oil.
While you are reading this, I’m on a plane. Flying to Virginia.
On Friday the 13th. The flight left at 6 am.
Yes, I made the reservations. Who knows what I was thinking.
All I can hope for is a little relaxation.
I bet I could find some at this beach, in Burundi…
Lake Tanganyika. Photo Courtesy of Andreas
For today’s FFF,I thought it would be fun to share 4 first hand accounts of meals in Burundi, followed by our weekly poll:
Lunch at the Market restaurant
A heaping plate of rice and peas in tomato and onion sauce, fried bananas, a piece of beef (having lived a long and toil-filled life before landing on the plate), accompanied by slices of fresh pineapple, by bananas, peanuts, and a soft drink, cost $1.50 each. Move over McDonald’s.
…gorging ourselves on a number of Burundian delicacies – many different cooked vegetables, fried plantains, rice, sauce with beef (none of which was all that unusual to our American palates – though we think the cheese in one of the salads may have been the cause of several of us not feeling completely well the next day)
We took a break at 1:00 to have lunch: a plate of beef with sauce, rice, beans, spinach and fried bananas, salted peanuts, and bananas for dessert, with a bottle of soda per person. By local standards a great feast. Cost $3
I invited them to lunch in the bar/café of the hotel. They all ordered beef brochettes. Three of them are farmers and they have the chance to eat meat perhaps once every three months if that. Etienne said he liked meat very much, but that he was very old (I asked – he’s 56). I didn’t see the connection right away, so they explained that in Burundi, the older people get the more they like meat. In any event they all savored their brochettes. We continued talking through lunch, and then it was time for me to leave.
Pili-Pili (also called Piripiri) is the kind of hot sauce that puts hair on a man’s chest. And, possibly, even a woman’s. This basic African condiment was introduced by the Portuguese in the 1500’s.
To give you an idea of how intense pili-pili is, imagine this true story:
Positioned just outside the second room, where we would shake the president’s hand, sat a vast array of spicy delicacies, accompanied by bowls of pili-pili sauce for dipping. For the uninitiated, Pili-pili (pronounced “pee-lee pee-lee”) is a sauce made from a fiery pepper similar but more potent than a jalepeno. Crushed into an eye watering hot sauce, pili-pili is not for the weak and timid.
The majority of assembled dignitaries, faint with hunger, attacked the assortment of peppery cocktail treats with gusto. However, immediately before their moment of glory with Mobutu [the president], most had mouths heartily stuffed with spicy finger foods laced with pili-pili – a deadly combination. Television cameras caught diplomat after diplomat walking the red carpet, mouths burning into a smile, and eyes watering. Far from emotional tears of pleasure at meeting Mobutu and shaking his hand, most of these tears derived from people in pain from pili-pili.
Excerpt from A Crocodile in the Pool: Tales of a diplomat’s wife in the Congo by Janet Ruddock
Makes 1/3 cup
Pili-pili recipes abound. Make your version according to personal preference, with whatever hot peppers look tastiest at your farmer’s market or in your summer garden. While fire-engine hot chili peppers are traditional, I’ve made a very mild version for our meal, utilizing poblano and jalapeño peppers. In my version the lemon and garlic dominate – heat is simply a light background note.
To make this recipe a little spicier, leave the jalapeño seeds in. Also, substitute a couple of Anaheim, habenero or your favorite potent pepper for the Poblano. Then you’ll surely experience the tears Ruddock wrote about.
And, if you do, I wish you the best of luck, my friend.
Ingredients:
1 lemon, juiced
4 cloves garlic, crushed
1-2 Tbsp vegetable oil
salt
1 poblano pepper
1 jalapeño
Method:
Add all ingredients to the cup of an immersion blender (or a small food processor). Puree until smooth. Cook for a few minutes in a frying pan, or serve raw. I served mine raw and it was delightful.
My poblanos needed picking so badly. You can’t tell in this picture, but it was starting to turn red!
A juicy lemon will be heavy for its size. This was possibly the juiciest lemon ever. It took me to my happy place.
If yours lemon is dry, you might juice another half.
One day I will write an ode to garlic.
I removed the jalapeño seeds to keep my pili-pili mild. You can leave them in!
Loosely chopping the peppers helps them process better with the immersion blender.
Salt not only adds flavor, but it helps break down the ingredients. Traditionally, pili-pili would be made with a mortal and pestle.
A little vegetable oil binds.
Hey, look! My apron matches!
I couldn’t have planned that if I tried.
I’ll admit that my version should probably be spicier, but I am in love with how it came out.
The strong lemon flavor is perfect with the fish on this week’s Burundian menu.
I’ll definitely be making this again.
| Servings |
| 1/3 cup |
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Pili-pili recipes abound. Make your version according to personal preference, with whatever hot peppers look tastiest at your farmer’s market or in your summer garden.
While fire-engine hot chili peppers are traditional, I’ve made a very mild version for our meal, utilizing poblano and jalapeño peppers. In my version the lemon and garlic dominate – heat is simply a light background note. To make this recipe a little spicier, leave the jalapeño seeds in. Also, substitute a couple of Anaheim, habenero or your favorite potent pepper for the Poblano.
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If you are looking for something quick and easy, Burundian food is for you. This fresh, healthy meal can easily be sized up for a crowd. Be sure to serve this meal with a big pot of white rice on the side.
Fish with Tomatoes and Onion [Recipe]
Light and healthy cod fish steamed with tomatoes, onion, a hint of habenero and red palm oil. Traditional recipes use Ndagala or mukéké.
Red Kidney Beans with Plantains [Recipe]
Spicy chili powder brings red kidney beans to life, while mildly sweet plantains make this dish addictive comfort food.
Fried Plantains [Recipe]
Lightly pan-fried plantains turn golden and crispy, with a pinch of salt.
Hot Sauce (Pili Pili) [Recipe]
Pili Pili (or piri piri) is made with fresh citrus juice, either lemon or lime, tons of garlic, and chili peppers. Additional herbs like parsley can be added if desired.
Fresh Tropical Fruit
Cooked desserts are not common in Burundi. Instead, fresh pineapple or bananas are served at the end of the meal.
Nestled up to the largest lake in the world, Lake Tanganyika, is the tiny country of Burundi. There, amidst the rolling hills and the lush tropics, live a people surviving on a simple bounty of beans, bananas, plantains, maize (corn), cassava, sweet potato, and peas.
Peek under the lid of any Burundian pot, and you’ll likely find red kidney beans. Cooked simply with a little red palm oil, onion, and spicy chili powder, the nutrient rich bean becomes a delight. To avoid monotony, many Burundi mix things up by stirring in slices of sweet plantain (recipe). This completely stunning comfort food is both rich and savory.
The banana and the plantain can be found everywhere, piled high on the back of bicycles, old truck beds, and in baskets on top of women’s heads. These sweet treats are served plain, fried (recipe), and in home-brewed banana beer called Urwarwa. In fact, there’s little in the way of cooked dessert served in Burundi. Instead, the people enjoy a ripe banana or juicy pineapple slices.
Fishermen on Lake Tanganyika. Photo courtesy of Francesca Ansaloni
Fish, drawn daily from the crystal lakes, is a staple for those who can afford it. The two most popular varieties from Tanganyika are called Ndagala (a tiny fish eaten whole) or mukéké (larger mackerel type fish). The fish are either grilled, steamed over a fresh tomato and onion sauce (recipe), or fried. Sometimes they are served with white rice and a side of spicy beans, other times they are served with French fries (a standby from Belgian occupation) or a traditional stiff porridge.
Meat is rare, and said to be enjoyed more as one ages, probably due to the financial limitations of youth. Goat is the most available meat, although chicken and beef can be found as well.
Seasonings add variety including red chili powder, cumin, and turmeric. Piri Piri (also Pili Pili), an African hot sauce, is served with most meals (recipe). The spicy, tart sauce is made with fresh citrus juice (either lemon or lime), garlic, chili peppers, and salt. Additional seasonings and herbs, such as parsley, can be added depending on the cook’s preferences.
Although most of the people in Burundi get by with a limited selection of foods, the diet remains bold and flavorful.
“The smell is making my eyes water. One bite, and I can’t get the flavor out of my mouth! It’s like I’m still eating it. That counts, right?”
Keith looked at me with his best puppy dog eyes. And, since his eyes are hazel, he didn’t look much like a puppy.
“Just eat half of it,” I said.
“I can’t,” he replied, turning his plate so the Babenda was as far away as possible.
I kept eating, thinking about how fishy the Babenda tasted. Maybe he would eat some more of the unusual West African dish if I hadn’t tossed in so many dried anchovies. Or if he hadn’t seen me put them in. Maybe, just maybe, if we had some adventurous friends over, he might succumb to peer pressure and eat just a little more.
I took a big bite and then gave Ava some.
“Your loss!”
Ignoring me, he picked up another lamb skewer, buried it in a blizzard of Kan Kan Kan and took a bite.
“Now these are good!” he grinned.
Sigh. This man knows how to melt my heart. Especially when he wants something.
Instantaneously, the lonely, rejected pile of Babenda is forgiven.
You win some, you lose some.
Spiced Lamb Kabobs (Brochettes) [Recipe]
What I liked most about this dish:
The best part of brochettes, besides how easy the kabobs are to make, is the slow, creeping heat that builds while you eat them. The burn stays manageable, never becoming intolerably “hot.” The sweet cinnamon lingers in the background, while mild paprika and bold cayenne take center stage. With just a bit of tang from the vinegar, this unusual combination is subtle enough to suit most palates.
What I liked least about this dish:
Be sure that you keep a close eye on the kabobs – you want to cook them to medium or the meat becomes tough. Also, if you have different sized cubes of meat, be sure to put the small pieces together on some kabobs, and the large ones on another. Otherwise, they will cook at different rates. Finally, clean and oil the grill plates prior to grilling to avoid sticking.
Spiced Peanut Powder (Kan Kan Kan) [Recipe]
What I liked most about this dish:
First of all, Burkinabe claim that Kan Kan Kan is an aphrodisiac (watch out Keith)! If that’s not reason enough to make this spice powder, there’s more good news. The blend assembles in a flash and tastes fabulous.
Peanut powder is made with raw peanuts, giving this spice blend a green, grassy background flavor. We made ours quite hot (for my husband). Dipping pieces of meat into the Kan Kan Kan made the meal fun and interactive. Keith used so much that he broke out into a sweat. He has a new alternative to his beloved Tony’s. Thank. Double. Goodness.
What I liked least about this dish:
You have to go to a specialty market to find the Peanut Powder. We found ours at Tulsa’s Ebute Tropical Market. They have the maggi cubes there, too. Just make sure to check what flavor you get. It wasn’t until I set about making the recipe that I realized there was a shrimp on my maggi cube wrapper. Ew. Not that I have anything against shrimp, but it really doesn’t belong with lamb. I ran out and bought some powdered chicken stock (maggi cubes are just pressed stock cubes) and all was right with the world.
Spinach and Rice with fermented Locust Beans (Babenda) [Recipe]
What I liked most about this dish:
Babenda is a complete meal, containing spinach, rice, and a little fish (in the form of smoked anchovies). Bonus! Trying fermented locust beans (soumbala) – was a treat. They smell pungent, like blue cheese, and give the dish that same tingly mouth-feel that you get from sharp cheese.
What I liked least about this dish:
I think I went overboard with the smoked anchovies. Half the amount might be better, unless you love the little guys. This dish was probably Keith’s least favorite to date – he kept having to leave the kitchen (“for the smell”) while it was cooking. Oh well. Ava and I liked it just fine.
Hibiscus Drink with Fresh Pineapple (Bissap a la Bonne Dame) [Recipe]
What I liked most about this dish:
I love the bright, tart flavor of hibiscus with juicy pineapple (the pineapple I picked was laced with sweet magic – yum). Plus, this drink is beautiful and caffeine free!
What I liked least about this dish:
To extract the flavor of the hibiscus, you have to let the flowers soak in the hot water for about 30 minutes. The time is roughly the same for the tea bags I picked up at the store. I don’t particularly mind (especially since I’d probably make this the day ahead for a party), but it does slow things down if you’re in a hurry.
Also, this drink is unsweetened. If you prefer a sweet drink, add some honey, juice, homemade simple syrup, etc. A particularly popular variation includes equal parts tea and lemonade (which is how Keith has been drinking the leftovers).
Ava’s Corner
Ava showed Keith up big time, and ate a decent amount of the Babenda. She also tried the caffeine free hibiscus tea, but I think it was a little too tart. This video mainly shows her trying the lamb (with one spoonful of Babenda).
Makes 1.75 liters (plus the pineapple)
Chilled hibiscus tea is light and refreshing. The natural floral tang is a wonderful counterpart to sweet pineapple chunks. Kids will love fishing out the fruit in this totally and wonderfully decaffeinated iced tea.
VARIATION: Some recipes call for equal parts lemonade to hibiscus tea. We tried this “pink lemonade” and loved it!
Ingredients:
small handful hibiscus flowers (or 4 teabags)
6 cups boiling water
4 cups ice
1 pineapple, cubed
Method:
1. Pour boiling water over hibiscus flowers or teabags.
Let steep about 30 minutes. Hibiscus puts on a wonderful show as the purplish dried leaves turn the water vivid red.
Strain into ice to speed up cooling. Trust me, you won’t want to wait any longer than you have to!
Serve chilled with chunks of pineapple.
I made my chunks large. I couldn’t help it. This was the sweetest pineapple I’ve had in a long time. Yum!
Cheers! I hope you the last bit of your summer is splendid!
VARIATION: Some recipes call for equal parts lemonade to hibiscus tea.
Serves 4
Borasheht (or brochettes/kabobs) can be any sort of skewered meat. In our recipe, tender pieces of lamb are marinated in a spicy sauce. As you bite into the lamb, your mouth fills with a hint of cinnamon and garlic, mild tang from the vinegar, and a steady, creeping burn from the cayenne (about mild, on my scale).
NOTE: If you would like some extra heat on the side, try our Kan Kan Kan spice blend, popular in Burkina Faso.
Ingredients:
1/2 tsp paprika
1/2 tsp cinnamon
1/4 tsp cayenne
3 cloves garlic, crushed
salt, to taste
2 Tbsp vinegar
1 1/2 lbs lamb meat, cubed for skewers
Method:
1. In a small bowl, mix together paprika, cinnamon, cayenne, garlic, salt, and vinegar.
Have I told you recently how much I adore garlic?
Salt not only adds flavor, but tenderizes the meat as well.
Give everything a quick stir. No power equipment needed here!
2. Rub marinade all over the lamb pieces. Refrigerate overnight, or for at least 3 hours.
Keith snuck this photo when I wasn’t looking. I would have changed my shirt. I would have done my hair. But he wouldn’t let me redo it. Thank goodness love is blind. And blurry.
The next day: thread the meat onto the skewers (try to put large pieces together on some skewers, and small pieces on others).
Cook on a medium grill. Make sure its nice and oiled so the meat doesn’t stick.
Flip the skewers to finish (you’re aiming for medium).
Serve as part of a Burkinabe feast!
| Servings | Prep Time |
| 4 people | 10 minutes |
| Cook Time | Passive Time |
| 6-8 minutes | 3 hours |
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Borasheht (or brochettes/kabobs) can be any sort of skewered meat. In our recipe, tender pieces of lamb are marinated in a spicy sauce. As you bite into the lamb, your mouth fills with a hint of cinnamon and garlic, mild tang from the vinegar, and a steady, creeping burn from the cayenne (about mild, on my scale).
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NOTE: If you would like some extra heat on the side, try our Kan Kan Kan spice blend, popular in Burkina Faso.
Makes about 1/2 cup
This is my own version of the jarred Kan Kan Kan spice blend popular in Burkina Faso. The raw peanut powder offers a slight grassy flavor, dominated by heat from the chili powder and saltiness from the bouillon. Try with our Grilled Lamb Brochettes. While the jarred stuff alleges to be an aphrodisiac, I happened upon the description of this spice blend on an expat blog which – unfortunately -I can no longer track down. I mixed it together to taste. If you want the aphrodisiac, you’ll want to add a lot more ingredients, like ginger, mustard seed, and cinnamon.
NOTE: Peanut powder and Maggi cubes can be found at African markets. I went to Tulsa’s local Tropical market.
Ingredients:
1/2 cup peanut powder
1 tsp chili powder
1/4 tsp allspice
2 Maggi bouillon cubes or 2 tsp powdered bouillon
Method:
Take all ingredients and mix together in a small bowl.
If you use maggi cubes, crush them with the back of the spoon.
If, like me, you accidentally buy SHRIMP flavored maggi cubes and don’t notice until you take a picture, you’ll need an alternate plan.
Notice the word “Crevette” on the wrapper? That’s French for shrimp.
Sigh.
Just do like I did. Put all the other ingredients – except for the shrimp Maggi cube – in the bowl. Take the pretty picture.
Then run around for 45 minutes looking for powdered bouillon in the wee hours of the morning.
I’ll save you a few trips – drug stores have the stuff.
Who knew?
Doesn’t it look like powdered gold?
The final goods can be sprinkled on any grilled meats, just like they do in West Africa.
NOTE: Peanut powder and Maggi cubes can be found at African markets.
The making of a Christmas Feast in Burkina Faso.
Part One: Shows the preparation of the meal on the outdoor fires.
Part Two: The finished dishes are presented to the camera.
Happy Friday! I’m craving a giant slice of chocolate cake. But enough about me, let’s talk about Burkina Faso!
If you enjoy the flavor of funky blue cheese, dried or smoked fish, and bitter greens, then Babenda is for you!
I know. I’m asking a lot.
Although we might be a select group of people with such accommodating palates, this one pot meal is a common staple in Burkina Faso. Babenda is like a jazz orchestra in the mouth, making wild taste sensations and pungent high notes meander whimsically through mouth and home.
Ingredient Overview:
The Greens:
Any bitter greens can be used for Babenda, including spinach, kale, swiss chard, or mustard greens. Of these, swiss chard is the mildest. If you use a more intensely bitter green (like kale), Burkinabe traditionally add a dash of potash (or baking soda) to mellow the flavor out.
Soumbala:
Soumbala (also called dawadawa) is fermented locust bean. I found it frozen at a Tropical market in Tulsa. The dark brown bean smells like a sharp blue cheese and, just like blue cheese, will make your mouth tingle.
Dried Fish:
Dried fish are readily available in Burkina Faso, including sardines and dried anchovies. They add protein and a strong, briney flavor to the food. I found dried anchovies at the same Tropical market in Tulsa.
Ingredients:
1 bunch spinach
1/4 cup peanuts
1-3 dried sardines or smoked anchovies
1/3 cup soumbala, heaping (or 3 balls)
1/2 cup white rice
1 1/2 cups water
Method:
1. Clean and trim 1 bunch spinach.
You want to break off the root end (see right hand), leaving just the leaves and as much stem as you tolerate (see left hand). You can save the root end for stock or compost 🙂
2. In a food processor, puree together peanuts, dried sardines, and soumbala.
Peanut pieces are much cheaper than whole peanuts, so I buy them in bulk for cooking.
I couldn’t find dried sardines, so I used smoked anchovies.
You can’t tell from the picture, but I was telling Keith to “hurry up and take it already.”
He took his sweet time, relishing the sight of me squirming about with the fishies.
I shouldn’t have been so squeamish. I’ve filleted fish. I’ve boned a lamb shank (all at the Culinary Institute of America). But dried fish are on a whole other level.
I guess that’s what this Adventure is for.
Hello little guys. Let’s get acquainted!
Here’s the soumbala. It was frozen and I put it in the food processor that way with no problems. I really enjoyed this, despite the strong odor. But, then again, I love anything fermented – stinky cheese, wine, bread,…
Puree until the mixture looks like coarse sand. Or fine gravel.
3. Add 1/2 cup white rice and process another 20 seconds.
Some of the rice will break into smaller pieces which will contribute to the the characteristic gelatinous texture of the final dish.
4. Add all ingredients (including spinach) to large pot with water. Simmer, covered.
After about 15 minutes, give everything a stir to mix the spinach in.
Doesn’t look too hot yet. Don’t worry.
Simmer another 15 minutes.
The rice will have absorbed all the water, making for a pasty mass of spinach and rice.
Serve immediately, with a confident smile.
This recipe was fascinating! Thank you Burkina Faso 🙂
Special Thanks to Jeannette M. who helped clarify my rusty translation from the French. Without her, I very well might have thought this was a beverage. Ok. Not really. But thank you Jeannette for suggesting what greens to use. Your time and cheerful assistance made my adaptation a success !
