If you haven’t enjoyed rose water and cardamom before, you’re in luck! The bold flavors of this Afghan Firnee are a novel delight for the western palette. Rose water and cardamom give this creamy custard an ethereal quality, while the ground nuts add a mystifying texture. Enjoy with tea and dried apricots. (Serves 4)
Ingredients:
2 1/4 cup whole milk
1 cup sugar
4 Tbsp cornstarch
1 tsp ground cardamom
1 capful rosewater
2-4 Tbsp pistachios, finely ground
12 whole pistachios for garnish
Method:
1. Heat milk in a small, heavy bottomed saucepan over low heat.
2. In a small cup mix cornstarch with a few tablespoons milk. Stir to create a smooth, gravy like consistency. This is called a cornstarch slurry.
3. Add cornstarch slurry, sugar, cardamom, and rose water to saucepan. Stirring constantly, heat mixture until it thickens and a few bubbles break through the surface.
4. Remove from heat and ladle into serving dishes. This recipe will fill 4 small ramekins.
5. Cover with plastic wrap, pressing lightly onto the pudding. This prevents a skin from forming on the custard.
6. Refrigerate and cool completely. Sprinkle with ground pistachios, decorate with 2-3 whole pistachios, and serve.
Cardamom & Rose Water Custard | Firnee
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If you haven't enjoyed rose water and cardamom before, you're in luck! The bold flavors of this Afghan Firnee are a novel delight for the western palette. Rose water and cardamom give this creamy custard an ethereal quality, while the ground nuts add a mystifying texture. Enjoy with tea and dried apricots. (Serves 4)
If you haven't enjoyed rose water and cardamom before, you're in luck! The bold flavors of this Afghan Firnee are a novel delight for the western palette. Rose water and cardamom give this creamy custard an ethereal quality, while the ground nuts add a mystifying texture. Enjoy with tea and dried apricots. (Serves 4)
Heat milk in a small, heavy bottomed saucepan over low heat.
In a small cup mix cornstarch with a few tablespoons milk. Stir to create a smooth, gravy like consistency. This is called a cornstarch slurry.
Add cornstarch slurry, sugary, cardamom, and rose water to saucepan. Stirring constantly, heat mixture until it thickens and a few bubbles break through the surface - about 5-10 minutes.
Remove from head and ladle into serving dishes. This recipe will fill 4 small ramekins.
Cover with plastic wrap, pressing lightly onto the pudding. This prevents a skin from forming on the custard.
Refrigerate and cool completely - for at least an hour.
When allowed to sit for an hour (or best overnight), this Afghan yogurt sauce strikes the perfect balance between garlic, mint and lemon juice. Even those who generally avoid mint will be won over by this sauce, especially when served with boldly spiced rice and vegetables. Serve with braised eggplant and Kabeli Palau. (Makes 1 1/4 cups)
Ingredients:
1 cup plain yogurt
3-4 cloves crushed garlic
2 Tbsp lemon juice
2 Tbsp minced fresh mint
2 Tbsp Olive Oil
Method:
In a small bowl, combine all ingredients. Let chill for at least an hour to let the flavors meld. If the mixture separates, simply stir together to recombine.
When allowed to sit for an hour (or best overnight), this Afghan sauce strikes the perfect balance between garlic, mint and lemon juice. Even those who generally avoid mint will be won over by the fresh flavor, especially when served with boldly spiced rice and vegetables.
When allowed to sit for an hour (or best overnight), this Afghan sauce strikes the perfect balance between garlic, mint and lemon juice. Even those who generally avoid mint will be won over by the fresh flavor, especially when served with boldly spiced rice and vegetables.
This Afghan braised eggplant dish is best served at room temperature. The cayenne gives the eggplant an enjoyable kick, while the turmeric gives it a golden glow. Serve with Seer Moss (Garlic Yogurt Sauce).
Ingredients:
1 large eggplant (about 8″ long)
1/2 can diced tomatoes
4 cloves garlic, crushed or minced
4-6 Tbs vegetable oil
1 Tbs dried cilantro (use fresh for garnish if you have it)
1 tsp turmeric
1/8 tsp (or up to 1 tsp) cayenne pepper (mild or death-by-cayenne)
Salt & Pepper, to taste
Method:
1. Slice eggplant lengthwise 1/4 inch thick. Salt liberally on both sides and lay on a cooling rack over a cookie sheet for about an hour. The salt will draw out bitterness. Rinse the salt off of the eggplant and pat dry.
2. Saute crushed garlic in olive oil until fragrant in a large, heavy bottomed skillet. Set aside garlic in a small container.
3. Add vegetable oil to the skillet and heat on medium-high. Add eggplant and brown, cooking in batches if necessary. The eggplant should be relatively soft when done.
4. Reduce heat and add tomatoes, cilantro, garlic, cayenne, salt, and pepper.
This Afghan braised eggplant dish is best served at room temperature. The cayenne gives the eggplant an enjoyable kick, while the turmeric gives it a golden glow. Serve with Seer Moss (Garlic Yogurt Sauce).
This Afghan braised eggplant dish is best served at room temperature. The cayenne gives the eggplant an enjoyable kick, while the turmeric gives it a golden glow. Serve with Seer Moss (Garlic Yogurt Sauce).
Slice Eggplants lengthwise 1/4 inch thick. Optional: salt liberally on both sides and lay on a cooling rack over a cookie sheet for 15 minutes. The salt will draw out bitterness. Rinse the salt off of the eggplant and pat dry.
Saute crushed garlic in olive oil until fragrant in a large, heavy bottomed skillet. Set aside garlic in a small container.
Add vegetable oil to the skillet and heat on medium-high. Add eggplant and brown, cooking in batches if necessary. The eggplant should be relatively soft when done.
Reduce heat and add tomatoes, cilantro, garlic, cayenne, salt, and pepper.
Simmer until the Eggplant is very tender, 20-30 minutes.
Garnish with torn cilantro leaves.
Recipe Notes
Spice according to your personal tastes: 1/8 teaspoon cayenne will be mild, while 1 teaspoon is very hot!
When cooked gently over medium heat Noni Afghani is soft and chewy. The yogurt keeps the bread moist, while the cumin seeds add an earthy flavor. This comforting flatbread is ideal for sopping up Afghan dips and curries.
Ingredients:
3 cups all-purpose flour, plus extra as needed
1/4 cup whole wheat flour
2 1/4 tsp instant yeast (1 package)
2 tsp sugar
1 1/2 tsp salt
1 cup water
1/4 cup plain yogurt, low-fat or whole milk
1 Tbsp olive oil, plus extra for bowl
2 Tbsp whole cumin seeds
4 Tbsp ghee or butter, melted
Method:
1. In a large mixer with paddle attachment, combine flours, yeast, sugar, salt, water, yogurt, and olive oil.
2. Switch to dough hook. Mix for about 10 minutes, or until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl. The dough will be moist but not overly sticky. Add extra flour a little at a time, if necessary.
2. Shape dough into a ball and transfer to a clean, oiled bowl. Cover and place in a warm spot until the dough has doubled in size, about 1 hour.
3. Divide in 8-12 portions and roll into balls. Cover and let rest for 15 minutes.
4. Press each ball flat. Sprinkle each side with cumin seeds. With a rolling pin, roll into 1/3″ thick oblong discs.
5. Heat a large, heavy bottomed skillet or cast-iron pan over medium heat. Add ghee (or butter). Add one or two discs to skillet at a time. Do not crowd.
6. Cook about 1 minute on first side. Flip and cook until the second side is brown and aromatic. This will take about 2-4 minutes.
7. Place Noni in a cloth lined basket. The bread will retain heat without getting soggy. Serve immediately.
When cooked gently over medium heat Noni Afghani is soft and chewy. The yogurt keeps the bread moist, while the cumin seeds add an earthy flavor. This comforting flatbread is ideal for sopping up Afghan dips and curries.
Adapted from “Indian-Style Flatbread” in The Best International Recipe, by Cooks Illustrated.
When cooked gently over medium heat Noni Afghani is soft and chewy. The yogurt keeps the bread moist, while the cumin seeds add an earthy flavor. This comforting flatbread is ideal for sopping up Afghan dips and curries.
Adapted from “Indian-Style Flatbread” in The Best International Recipe, by Cooks Illustrated.
In a large mixer with paddle attachment, combine flours, yeast, sugar, salt, water, yogurt, and olive oil.
Switch to dough hook. Mix for about 10 minutes, or until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl. The dough will be moist but not overly sticky. Add extra flour a little at a time, if necessary.
Shape dough into a ball and transfer to a clean, oiled bowl. Cover and place in a warm spot until the dough has doubled in size, about 1 hour.
Divide in 8-12 portions and roll into balls. Cover and let rest for 15 minutes.
Press each ball flat. Sprinkle each side with cumin seeds. With a rolling pin, roll into 1/3″ thick oblong discs.
Heat a large, heavy bottomed skillet or cast-iron pan over medium heat. Add ghee (or butter). Add one or two discs to skillet at a time. Do not crowd.
Cook about 1 minute on first side. Flip and cook until the second side is brown and aromatic. This will take about 2-4 minutes.
Recipe Notes
Store Noni in a cloth lined basket. Cover loosely with the cloth. The bread will retain heat without getting soggy. Serve immediately.
Kabeli Palau (also known as kabulipulao) is a much loved party dish in Afghanistan. The highly seasoned rice dish is finished in the oven, giving the cook 45 minutes to prepare for the arrival of their guests (simply prepare garnish ahead of time). The intense flavor of garam masala is balanced by sweet bursts of carrot and golden raisins.
Update (2015): This is the original recipe as prepared for the blog; the recipe in my memoir has been further tested and streamlined.
Note: You may purchase 6 cups chicken broth and use leftover chicken pieces. This will save you several steps (and at least an hour) if you are in a hurry.
Ingredients:
1 lb basmati rice, rinsed
1/4 cup ghee or butter
1 large onion, sliced thin
1/2 chicken, bone in or 3 chicken breasts
2 Tbsp tomato paste
1 Tbsp salt
1 clove garlic, crushed
6 cups water
1 Tbsp garam masala
1/4 tsp saffron
Garnish:
2 carrots, cut into matchsticks or shredded
1/2 cup golden raisins
1/2 cup slivered almonds
pinch saffron
1/2 cup hot water
Method:
1. In a large pot, bring 6 cups water to a boil.
2. Meanwhile, rinse rice until water runs clear. Add rice to boiling water, reduce heat to low and simmer for 6 minutes. Drain rice and discard cooking water.
3. Add six cups water to a large pot. Add chicken. Bring to a simmer and cook for 30-45 minutes or until chicken is falling off the bone.
4. Meanwhile, in a large skillet, cook onions in ghee until deep golden brown in color. This could take 30 minutes. Stir often. Be careful not to let pan dry out and burn the onions.
5. In a food processor, combine onion, tomato paste, and a 1/2 cup chicken broth. This will cook more on the stove and in the oven, so you can take the broth at any point from the simmering pot of chicken.
6. In a very large casserole (I used my new, oven safe wok), combine rice and onion mixture. Add salt, garlic, garam masala, and saffron.
7. Skim the fat from the chicken broth and strain into to rice mixture.
8. Preheat oven to 350F. Pick through chicken and add the pieces to the rice mixture. Stir to combine.
9. Cook uncovered in the oven until rice is tender (taste test please), about 45 minutes, adding up to a cup of water towards the end if it looks too dry. Some drying around the edges is normal.
For the Garnish:
10. Meanwhile, saute carrots in ghee until golden brown and soft. Add raisins, almonds, saffron, and water. Cook until water is reduced and raisins have plumped.
11. Add carrot garnish to the top of the rice mixture when done cooking. Serve immediately.
Kabeli Palau is a much loved party dish in Afghanistan. The highly seasoned rice dish is finished in the oven, giving the cook 45 minutes to prepare for the arrival of their guests (simply prepare garnish ahead of time).
The intense flavor of garam masala is balanced by sweet bursts of carrot and golden raisins.
Kabeli Palau is a much loved party dish in Afghanistan. The highly seasoned rice dish is finished in the oven, giving the cook 45 minutes to prepare for the arrival of their guests (simply prepare garnish ahead of time).
The intense flavor of garam masala is balanced by sweet bursts of carrot and golden raisins.
Meanwhile, rinse rice until water runs clear. Add rice to boiling water, reduce heat to low and simmer for 6 minutes. Drain rice and discard cooking water.
Add six cups water to a large pot. Add chicken. Bring to a simmer and cook for 30-45 minutes or until chicken is falling off the bone.
Meanwhile, in a large skillet, cook onions in ghee until deep golden brown in color. This could take 30 minutes. Stir often. Be careful not to let pan dry out and burn the onions.
In a food processor, combine onion, tomato paste, and a 1/2 cup chicken broth. This will cook more on the stove and in the oven, so you can take the broth at any point from the simmering pot of chicken.
In a very large casserole (I used my new, oven safe wok), combine rice and onion mixture. Add salt, garlic, garaham masala, and saffron.
Defat chicken broth and strain into to rice mixture.
Preheat oven to 350F. Pick through chicken and add the pieces to the rice mixture. Stir to combine.
Cook uncovered in the oven until rice is tender (taste test please), about 45 minutes, adding up to a cup of water towards the end if it looks too dry. Some drying around the edges is normal.
For the Garnish
Meanwhile, saute carrots in ghee until golden brown and soft. Add raisins, almonds, saffron, and water. Cook until water is reduced and raisins have plumped.
Tip rice mixture onto a large platter. Add carrot garnish to the top of the rice mixture when done cooking. Serve immediately.
Recipe Notes
You may purchase 6 cups chicken broth and use leftover chicken pieces. This will save you several steps (and at least an hour) if you are in a hurry.
I finished picking through the 1/2 pound bags of cinnamon sticks and lifted my head, scanning the aisles for Rose Water. The Indian grocery store, Laxmi Spices, was small but well-organized.
Ava squirmed on my hip, reaching for the pretty bags in front of her.
“Stay focused.” I whispered to her and walked towards the Rose Water.
Ava let out a squeal and lunged to the side. I caught her and looked in the direction of her small, outstretched hands.
That’s when I lost all self-control.
There, on the floor, was a pile of steel pans. Glorious steel pans.
Usually, I am an indecisive shopper. One look at these pans, however, and I knew that I would be purchasing one.
My new toy, a.k.a. the Stirring Pot
Let me tell you, these pans are heavy-duty. They don’t have pansy plastic handles so they can go from stove top to oven with ease. And they aren’t coated in nonstick, a product I only tolerate for omelette making.
Their shape serves both as a wok and as a casserole dish (perfect for this weekend’s Afghan rice dish). For only twenty dollars this pan is better than anything Williams Sonoma has to offer.
Note: Steel must be thoroughly dried before storage to avoid rusting. For more information on how to clean this type of pan click here.
After bringing my prize up to the register, I regrouped and headed once again for the Rose Water. I swiftly scooped up a bottle and headed towards check out.
Thirty minutes later I left.
Smiling.
With all of this…
L to R: Ground Cardamom, Cardamom Seeds, Golden Raisins, Ghee (toasted, clarified butter with a high smoke point like oil), Rose Water, Saffron, Cayenne Pepper, Graham Masala, and Cumin Seeds.
Whoops! 🙂
P.S. Rose Water smells like grandma gym socks.
In a good way.
Ava and Mr. Picky enjoying their first taste of the adventure with Afghanistan
After hours going through my cookbook collection, browsing through library shelves, and surfing online, I can honestly say that I am ready to eat some Afghan food! I put together a menu for this weekend, but not without some heartache (I had a tough time eliminating potential dishes – everything sounded so good!). Here’s what I came up with:
Sabse Borani [Recipe] Traditional Afghan spinach-yogurt dip
Kabeli Palau [Recipe] Twice-cooked Basmati Rice with Chicken and Carrots. This traditional party dish is seasoned with graham masala and saffron.
Noni Afghani [Recipe] Noni Afghani is a flatbread similar to Naan. Noni is used to scoop up food in the place of silverware.
Firnee [Recipe] Firnee is a sweet custard seasoned with cardamom, rose water and dusted with finely ground pistachios.
Dried Apricots Many Afghans enjoy the sweet taste of apricots after dessert.
Connecting Cuisines
You will notice several similarities between Afghan and Indian cuisines. This regional influence is just one of many. In Afghanistan, Enchantment of the WorldTerry Willis remarks:
The flavors of several different cultures come together in Afghan cuisine. India has influenced the spices used in Afghan food. The Persian tradition of slow cooking meat, especially lamb and chicken, along with spinach and mint, shows up frequently on Afghan tables. Afghans also adopted noodles from Mongolian cooking.
Wait… didn’t everyone adopt their noodles from Mongolia and northern China? Click here for an article about noodle history by National Geographic.
I keep a cold house in the winter. Icicle nose cold. Sure, the frigid air makes me irritable, but usually throwing on another sweater solves that problem. Unless I am getting out of the shower, in which case I just have to grit my teeth and dry off quickly.
Well, imagine my delight when I uncovered this gem of a fact about Afghan culture:
In the depth of winter food is eaten around the sandali, the traditional form of Afghan heating. A sandali consists of a low table covered with a large duvet called a liaf which is also big enough to cover the legs of the occupants, sitting on their cushions or mattresses and supported by large pillows called balesht or poshty. Under the table is a charcoal brazier called a manqal. The charcoal has to be thoroughly burned previously and covered with ashes. (Afghan Food and Cookery, Helen Saberi)
What a cozy atmosphere!
An Afghan Sandali without food.
A few items of cultural significance
Saberi tells us that guests are given the honor of sitting at the head of the table (when there is a table – often meals are eaten on mats called disterkhan).
Before the meal begins, a ceremonial hand washing occurs with a haftawa-wa-lagan (pitcher of water poured over a basin). This is because, traditionally, utensils are only used for tea and pudding. Everything else must be eaten with the right hand.
Up to four people can share one dish, family style. The entire meal is laid out at once, including dessert and fruits. However, guests know to eat their main course first, followed by dessert, fruit, and finally hot tea.
Typical foods include Pilau (seasoned basmati rice), qorma (curry), stew, kebobs, or vegatables accompanied by homemade chutney, pickles, and noni Afghani (soft, doughy flatbread).
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