Ambewela, Sri Lanka. Photo by Anuradha Ratnaweera.

This week our kitchens take us to the small, pear-shaped island country called Sri Lanka. She’s just southeast of India, loaded with tropical hills, mountains, and a fresh, dreamy sort of ocean breeze.

She was once known as “Ceylon,” a name which can still be found in the tea that grows abundantly on her slopes.

Tea plantation in Sri Lanka. Photo by Anjadora.

Between the crocodiles, monkeys, and elephants, her lush forests hide coconut trees, one of the staple ingredients in Sri Lanka.

[dropshadowbox align=”right” effect=”lifted-both” width=”600px” height=”” background_color=”#ffffff” border_width=”1″ border_color=”#dddddd” ]Fun Fact: Did you know the elephant is the national animal of Sri Lanka?[/dropshadowbox]

So beautiful…

Sri Lankan elephants roaming in the Kaudulla National Park. Photo by Christophe Meneboeuf ( http://www.pixinn.net)

My friend Ruby’s husband is from Sri Lanka and I got to sample several homemade dishes recently and fell in love with their use of coconut.*

It is no exaggeration to say that coconut is in nearly every recipe. In fact, a fascinating article was just posted about the Sri Lankan coconut and its uses on Splendid Table. From coconut roti (a flatbread also found in India) [Recipe], to yellow rice [Recipe],  to dal [Recipe], the creamy milk and flakes give Sri Lankan cooking its characteristic flavor and texture.

Two other ingredients are also worth mentioning. First, Pandan (or rampe), the screwpine leaf… its aroma is sweet and reminiscent of vanilla.

Photo by dekoelie.

Second, curry leaves. These small green leaves add a toasted, almost smoky flavor to the island’s food. Curries typically include both ingredients, along with a significant amount of hot chilies…

Curry Leaves. Photo by Sonja Pauen – Stanhopea.

I’ve learned that there isn’t enough water to make these curries go down my throat without burning. Tolerance for such spice is something that must be acquired over a lifetime. This is how locals can eat several mouthfuls without breaking a sweat, while visitors are laid out from the intensity of even a mild curry. If you’re lucky, a few bites of hoppers (rice flour pancakes) take down the heat a notch.

Heck, even at Ruby’s birthday dinner, I soon found that only us westerners thought the food to be spicy.

It’s all about what you’re used to, I suppose.

The Temple of the Tooth in Kandy. This temple is one of the most holy sites in Sri Lanka reputed to contain an actual tooth of the Buddha on his 2nd visit to the Island over 2000 years ago. Photo by McKay Savage.

Among all this talk of coconut, curry, and spice… I find it fun that there’s also a great amount of Dutch influence on the cuisine, as notable with the Frikadeller (or meatballs) we made way back when.

Seems odd but, hey… I’d be happy eating meatballs that good on either (or any) continent.

*This is saying a lot considering I started this adventure without any love for coconut whatsoever. 

P.S. I’m curious… How do you use coconut? Do you enjoy the milk, the flesh.. or all of it? Perhaps none of it? Nowadays, I often find myself using the milk, but steering clear of the flakes. I can’t quite pinpoint why, though I’m working on overcoming this aversion. 

Maps and flag of Sri Lanka, courtesy of CIA World Factbook.